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Outside/In: The cold, hard truth about refrigeration

A worker at the Los Angeles Cold Storage Company stands at the entrance to a cold room
Nicola Twilley
A worker at the Los Angeles Cold Storage Company stands at the entrance to a cold room.

In the early 1900s, people didn’t trust refrigerated food. Fruits and vegetables, cuts of meat. . . these things are supposed to decay, right? As Nicola Twilley writes, “What kind of unnatural technology could deliver a two-year old chicken carcass that still looked as though it was slaughtered yesterday?”

But just a few decades later, Americans have done a full 180. Livestock can be slaughtered thousands of miles away, and taste just as good (or better) by the time it hits your plate. Apples can be stored for over a year without any noticeable change. A network called the “cold-chain” criss-crosses the country, and at home our refrigerators are fooling us into thinking we waste less food than we actually do.

Today, refrigeration has reshaped what we eat, how we cook it, and even warped our very definition of what is and isn’t “fresh.”  

A full transcript of this episode is available here.

Featuring Nicola Twilley.

Nicola spent several weeks working the floors at Americold, one of the largest cold storage warehouse companies in the country. Here, she celebrates her last shift.
Photo by Geoff Manaugh.
Nicola spent several weeks working the floors at Americold, one of the largest cold storage warehouse companies in the country. Here, she celebrates her last shift.

ADDITIONAL READING

You can find Nicola’s new book, “Frostbite: How Refrigeration Changed Our Food, Our Planet and Ourselves,” at your local bookstore or online.


CREDITS

Our host is Nate Hegyi.

Reported and produced by Nate Hegyi and Taylor Quimby.

Mixed by Nate Hegyi.

Editing by Taylor Quimby.

Our staff includes Justine Paradis, Felix Poon, Kate Dario and Marina Henke.

Our executive producer is Taylor Quimby. Rebecca Lavoie is NHPR’s Director of On-Demand Audio.

Music by Blue Dot Sessions. Our theme music is by Breakmaster Cylinder.

Outside/In is a production of New Hampshire Public Radio.

Submit a question to the “Outside/Inbox.” We answer queries about the natural world, climate change, sustainability, and human evolution. You can send a voice memo to outsidein@nhpr.org or leave a message on our hotline, 1-844-GO-OTTER (844-466-8837).

Before joining New Hampshire Public Radio in February 2022, Nate covered public lands, federal agencies and tribal affairs as a reporter for the Mountain West News Bureau, a consortium of NPR member stations in the region. Nate's work has aired on NPR, BBC, CBC and other outlets.
Outside/In is a show where curiosity and the natural world collide. Click here for podcast episodes and more.
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